HYDERABAD’S IRANI CHAI

Often called the 90ml chai for its standard volume, this sweet milky tea has unique taste and some rejuvenating properties

Around the 19^th century when presian immigrants settled in hyderabad, they brought with them the culture of converging at cafes where young men would socialize. Gradually , locals too were drawn in. There was a catch through – coffee was the preferred drink here. Since integration has been the cornerstone of the success of migrant Iranians, they found a way around this too –  they added milk to their chai and served it sweet, just like the locals liked their coffee .Thus , Irani chai from the saucer. Served with a side of Osmania biscuits or the lukmi, this chai is not just a morning drink, it’s culture in a tea cup. Sajjad Shahid , historian and heritage conservationist , says, “Initially served only in Irani cafes, soon even the non-Iranian cafes, known ad Deccani cafes, started serving the chai.” With skyrocketing real estate prices and changing preferences of Hyderabad, the number of these cafes dwindled. Some have stood the test of the time though. Like The Grand Hotel, one of the oldest standing Irani cafes in the city. Jaleel Farrokhroz, the current proprietor, says, “In 1935, some Persion immigrants started the hotel. We were the first restaurant that served Irani chai commercially to Hyderadais.”

WHAT’S SPECIAL

It is difficult to make this chai at home because the preparation process is time-consuming and needs special vessels. It is important to use the best quality tea leaves, otherwise, the required viscosity will not be obtained. ”Tea leaves are boiled on low flame in a copper handa(pot), which has a tap attached to it. The trick is in boiling the decoction for hours as the flavor had to seep in. The vessel is sealed with a piece of thick cloth, so that no steam escapes, Full cream milk is boiled and sweetened in a different pot until it is thick and creamy. The decoction is poured into a cup and sweetened milk is ladled over it,” says Shahid, adding ,”some also like the preparation without milk(Sulemani). There’s another version calledthe pauna-  a light , creamy chai, that comes with1/4^th decoction and 3/4^th milk an upar se malai.”

RECIPE

INGREDIENTS : (SERVES 4 CUPS) I Water : 6 cups I Assam tea dust (mix of long and small leaves): 6tbsp I Sugar : 6 tbsp I for the milk with the cream

METHOD

Boil the milk in a thick- bottomed vessel until it’s thick and creamy.

Boil water, add tea leaves and sugar in a separate vessel ideally one with lid. Simmer on low flame for 40 minute.

Cover the vessel with a lid and seal with a cloth.

Once the decoction has a strong colour and aroma ,fill half a cup with this and spoon sweetened milk into this until the cup is filled.

Stir and serve.

COURTESY – TOI

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